Introduction
Athens is a feast for the senses – a vibrant tapestry of ancient wonders, mouth watering flavours, and sun-drenched streets. And in five days, one warm May, I was determined to savour every bite. Armed with a curious mind and an empty stomach, I embarked on an adventure, eager to uncover the city’s rich history and indulge in its culinary delights. From the iconic Acropolis to hidden tavernas tucked away in winding alleyways, join me as I retrace my steps and share the highlights of my Athenian travels. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or simply seeking a lively escape, I hope this blog provides insight and inspiration for your own Athenian adventure!
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: My arrival and very welcome surprise!
I arrived at the hotel around 10 pm local time after a 4.5 hour flight from London Gatwick, to which I was met with a very friendly and chirpy hotel manager, who checked me in with much gusto. After chatting with him as he was tapping away at his computer with me informing him this was my first trip abroad without family, he added a hotel breakfast for every day I was staying at the hotel to my booking and upgraded my room, both for free. What a start!
Day 2: Ancient Agora of Athens
Now, I’m a bit of a planner, so I’d already snagged a ticket for the Acropolis later in the week. The best part? It also gave me access to six other archaeological sites! All for about £30. Talk about a bargain! Sure, my Acropolis visit was locked in, but having the flexibility to explore the other sites whenever I wanted was a major win. (I found the ticket through GetYourGuide) Brimming with excitement, I could not wait to officially get this trip underway and What better way to initiate this adventure than with a day dedicated to delving into the depths of Athens’ Ancient Agora!
Breakfast of Champions
First things first, though: breakfast. The hotel buffet did not disappoint. It was a glorious spread of continental and full English goodness. Fried eggs, bacon, salami, cheese… the works. And then, there it was, winking at me from the sweet section: chocolate and vanilla marble cake. Now, I know what you’re thinking: Really Ollie, cake, for breakfast? Isn’t that a little controversial? Well, as the age-old adage goes, “When in Athens!” (or something like that). Of course, not everyone is going to agree with my decision to have cake for breakfast. But a free breakfast with cake? Add to basket. With breakfast sorted, I hastily went back to my room, grabbed the all important holiday satchel, equipped with my sunglasses, SPF 50 sun cream (because I never tan, and always burn), wallet and phone, and set off to the city centre towards the Agora of Athens.
Sensory Overload on Athinas Road
My walk to the Agora was a sensory overload. The Athinas Road buzzed with energy – a cacophony of honking cars and chattering voices. Graffiti, both vibrant and chaotic, covered every surface, and was a stark contrast to the ancient history I was about to encounter. Monastiraki Square was even more intense – a whirlwind of vendors, tourists, and a thousand conversations blending into one. Clutching my trusty holiday satchel tight, I navigated the narrow flea market with its stalls overflowing onto the path. Finally, the Agora entrance appeared.
Stepping into Ancient History at the Agora
The Agora spanned from the entrance point just past the flea market to the foot of the Acropolis, a sprawling expanse that once served as the beating heart of ancient Athens. Back in the day, this vibrant space was a central meeting place for a variety of purposes: a bustling marketplace, a forum for political and philosophical debate, a sanctuary for worship, and a stage for entertainment where people could gather to listen to famous philosophers or watch performances. Today, the Agora comprises a combination of half-intact structures and the weathered remnants of columns and marble statues, offering a glimpse into its incredible past. The best-preserved structure within the Agora was the Temple of Hephaestus, and walking around this magnificent building, originally constructed around 450 BC, felt almost surreal. Opposite the Temple of Hephaestus stands the Stoa of Attalos, now the museum of the ancient Agora, housing an impressive collection of statues, pottery, carvings, and other artefacts that further illuminate the rich history of this remarkable site.
Day 3: The Acropolis
Midway through my holiday and it was time for my only planned event, a visit to the Acropolis! With a 10am entry time, it was an early start with the same breakfast set up from the day before and out the door by 09:00. This gave the estimated 36 minute walk to the Acropolis from the hotel, plus some wiggle room for when I inevitably headed in the wrong direction. I’m not sure about you but I occasionally like to see how far I can get to my destination without any assistance be it from a paper map or uncle Google, like a little test for myself, which I decided to do. As you’re probably expecting, my allocated wiggle room was all but used up. I arrived a few minutes past my allocated slot of 10am but got through the entrance barrier with no problems. Phew! I’ve learned my lesson, don’t play manual navigator when an arrival time is active. Even though I missed my opportunity to pick up a tour guide headset, my ‘detour’ on the way to the Acropolis took me through some pretty picturesque streets with stunning views of Athens from an elevated viewpoint.
Once inside, I could see the Acropolis atop a very large rock, with both sides of the path upwards covered in old remnants of buildings that once stood, and seating areas for performers and people to enjoy. As I followed the slow moving sea of people up towards the Acropolis, I arrived at the theatre of Dionysus. A huge, circular theatre capable of housing up to 17,000 spectators! It was incredible, surprising (givenI had no idea it existed) and I was astonished to see how little the seating arenas had wethered. The walls behind the stage however weren’t so lucky.
After a short walk up the path, I arrived at the entrance to the Acropolis. As I climbed the main staircase and passed through a set of standing columns, anticipation built within me. Moments later, I emerged onto the plateau, and there it was. This magnificent, huge, ancient edifice towering over me, jaw firmly on the floor and eyes widened. There was so much going on, So many questions. I confess that in hindsight, asking why there was scaffolding around an ancient building was arguably a waste of time, and it partly was, but it had two answers. Not only was it there to support the original segments of the building, but it also allowed the builders to apply modern day materials to support the older sections where they stood. In the next picture of the Acropolis below, you can see to the right hand side that a few of the columns have been subject to some of these restoration efforts.
As marvellous as the Acropolis was, with its towering marble columns and intricate sculptures, it would have been a crime to not also soak up the breathtaking 360-degree views of Athens from its summit. Standing at the top, you could gaze out across the city and witness the rich tapestry of history and culture that unfolds before you. From the northern hills, crowned with lush pine forests, to the southern coastline where the azure waters of the Mediterranean embraced golden beaches, the panorama was simply mesmerising.
Day 4: Coastal exploration
The heat alone was justification enough for a beach trip, let alone being so close to the mediterranean sea I almost felt I had a sense of duty to bear witness to these deep azure waters. So that’s what I did. You could have guessed how the morning went. First a pit stop to the breakfast buffet and a date with some marble cake and back up to my room to pack the essentials, triple checking I had sun cream given the destination. After a quick search as to where I wanted to start my coastal exploration, I opened the Uber app, dropped the pin and set off toward my destination. 20 minutes later I arrived and found myself in front of a long stretching gold sandy beach, half bare and half equipped with 4 long rows of straw parasols with sun loungers sprawled out across the second half. Ignorant to the fact you had to pay for these loungers at a price of €12 per lounger, I took up residence. Shortly after I was approached by a waitress asking if I had paid and explained how it worked with the loungers, pay once for as long as you like, and its table service so you never have to get up.
Two thoughts occurred in unison. “What a find!” paired with “this is a dangerous combination both for my health and my bank account”. I proceeded to paid the €12 charge and began the day as I think anyone would when you find yourself on a sun soaked Athenian beach without a cloud in sight and with the Mediterranean sea stretching out over the horizon in front of you; with an ice cold pint of beer. (What was the time at this point you ask? 11am.) This was pretty much how the whole day went by, with a steady stream of beers and perfectly crafted and delicious cocktails appearing before me on my lounger table. I did stock up on sustenance at lunch with a succulent mouth watering chicken club sandwich ordered to the table so I could maximise my time in the basking sun, which did not disappoint and hit the spot perfectly. After over 6 hours of this glorious day of sun bathing and drinking, I started to make my way back. As someone who’s not the biggest fan of the sea’s mysterious inhabitants, I couldn’t resist at least dipping my toes into the fabled Mediterranean even if I didn’t go for a swim, it was a blissful experience until the inevitable sandy aftermath.
Day 5: Agoras o’plenty
I’d decided today was the day to put my Agora ticket to good use. After a quick search I’d found the remaining Agoras available to me with my ticket and headed to breakfast. After another delicious free breakfast equipped with marble cake, I headed back up to my room to get ready. The plan was simple: give my manual navigation skills another chance to shine now I had no timeframe, and explore the other Agoras and monuments scattered throughout Athens.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus
First, The Temple of Olympian Zeus. I’d been eagerly anticipating my visit to the Temple of Olympian Zeus, imagining towering columns and a sense of awe-inspiring grandeur. However, upon arriving, I was somewhat taken aback by the limited remains and the lack of information available on-site. While the few remaining columns still hinted at the temple’s potential glory, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of disappointment. I wished there were more information displays or plaques to provide context to help bring the site to life. Nevertheless, as I continued my explorations of Athens, I discovered countless other historical treasures that more than compensated for this initial letdown.
Hadrian’s Library
Next up was Hadrian’s Library. In stark contrast to my initial disappointment at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Hadrian’s Library proved to be a captivating revelation. The ruins, nestled amidst the bustling city, felt more intimate and enclosed. The site was remarkably well-preserved, with towering columns and intricate mosaics. Informative plaques dotted the grounds, providing valuable context and historical insights, allowing me to truly appreciate the library’s significance in ancient Athens. Hadrian’s library exceeded my expectations, leaving me with a profound appreciation for this ancient hub of knowledge and learning.
The Roman Agora
The Roman Agora, while smaller in scale than its ancient counterpart, offered a different kind of charm. Its compact layout and encircling walls created a sense of intimacy, almost like stepping into a hidden courtyard frozen in time. The well-preserved columns and arches, coupled with the informative plaques scattered throughout the site, painted a vivid picture of the bustling marketplace that once thrived here. The Tower of the Winds, a striking octagonal structure, stood as a testament to the ingenuity of ancient engineering. As I explored the ruins, I could almost hear the merchants haggling, the shoppers browsing, and the lively conversations filling the air. The Roman Agora, with its blend of history and atmosphere, was a delightful surprise that left a lasting impression.
A Taste of Local Flavours: Food and Drinks
The food throughout my trip to Athens did not disappoint. From the authentic street food to the fine dining restaurants, I savoured every bite of the culinary delights Greece had to offer. I set out on this trip with a goal of trying as much local food as possible and I definitely achieved it. During my time I had mouth watering kebabs, stacked souvlaki, fine dining Greek chicken with gnocchi, ice cold local Greek beer and perfectly concocted cocktails. You’ll have to forgive me for the names of each dish, I couldn’t remember their specific names from the menu. And, in the spirit of thorough culinary exploration (and maybe a bit of guilty pleasure), I even made a pilgrimage to the local McDonald’s. Call it a cultural immersion of a different kind, but potato wedges to accompany my DOUBLE big tasty meal was a no brainer, and delicious.
Summary
Over five sun-drenched days in May, I embarked on a journey through Athens, immersing myself in the city’s rich history and vibrant culinary scene. From exploring the iconic Acropolis and the bustling Ancient Agora to savouring mouth watering souvlaki and sipping on perfectly crafted cocktails, each day was filled with unforgettable experiences. I even indulged in a bit of “cultural immersion” at the local McDonald’s. Athens captivated me with its blend of ancient wonders and modern charm. It’s a city that invites exploration, whether you’re wandering through historic ruins, sampling local delicacies, or simply soaking up the lively atmosphere.